A phase-resolving beach evolution model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations

K. Fang, Z. Zou, P. Dong

    Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingOther chapter contribution

    1 Citation (Scopus)

    Abstract

    A phase-resolving beach profile model is developed to simulate beach profile changes under different wave conditions. The model consists of three modules, i.e., wave module, mean flow module and sediment transport module. The wave module is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations developed by Zou and Fang (alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: derivations and validations. Coastal Engineering, 2009, 55(6):506-521). It is able to capture accurately the location of breaking point which plays a key role in generating sandbars. The mean flow module considers undertow and the shear stress just on the top of the bottom, the former is described by a simple ad-hoc method (by Lynett, wave breaking velocity effects in depth-integrated models. Coastal Engineering, 2006, 53(4):325-333.) while the latter is considered by numerically solving Wave Bottom Boundary Layer (WBBL) equation. Finally, the beach updating model based on Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory (WENO) scheme (by Long et al., a numerical scheme for morphological bed level calculations. Coastal Engineering, 2008,55:167-180.) is adopted due to its efficiency. Other processes such as the new total sand transport rate formula which could take wave asymmetric and skewness into account is also incorporated into the model. The numerical results from the model are presented and compared with those from the other similar models.
    Original languageEnglish
    Title of host publicationProceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
    Pages1069-1074
    Number of pages6
    Volume3
    Publication statusPublished - 1 Jan 2010

    Fingerprint

    Boussinesq equation
    beach
    coastal engineering
    beach profile
    undertow
    sandbar
    benthic boundary layer
    wave breaking
    skewness
    shear stress
    sediment transport
    sand

    Cite this

    Fang, K., Zou, Z., & Dong, P. (2010). A phase-resolving beach evolution model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations. In Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference (Vol. 3, pp. 1069-1074)
    Fang, K. ; Zou, Z. ; Dong, P. / A phase-resolving beach evolution model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Vol. 3 2010. pp. 1069-1074
    @inbook{149a3c258af1422f914a198eaef330c7,
    title = "A phase-resolving beach evolution model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations",
    abstract = "A phase-resolving beach profile model is developed to simulate beach profile changes under different wave conditions. The model consists of three modules, i.e., wave module, mean flow module and sediment transport module. The wave module is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations developed by Zou and Fang (alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: derivations and validations. Coastal Engineering, 2009, 55(6):506-521). It is able to capture accurately the location of breaking point which plays a key role in generating sandbars. The mean flow module considers undertow and the shear stress just on the top of the bottom, the former is described by a simple ad-hoc method (by Lynett, wave breaking velocity effects in depth-integrated models. Coastal Engineering, 2006, 53(4):325-333.) while the latter is considered by numerically solving Wave Bottom Boundary Layer (WBBL) equation. Finally, the beach updating model based on Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory (WENO) scheme (by Long et al., a numerical scheme for morphological bed level calculations. Coastal Engineering, 2008,55:167-180.) is adopted due to its efficiency. Other processes such as the new total sand transport rate formula which could take wave asymmetric and skewness into account is also incorporated into the model. The numerical results from the model are presented and compared with those from the other similar models.",
    author = "K. Fang and Z. Zou and P. Dong",
    year = "2010",
    month = "1",
    day = "1",
    language = "English",
    volume = "3",
    pages = "1069--1074",
    booktitle = "Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference",

    }

    Fang, K, Zou, Z & Dong, P 2010, A phase-resolving beach evolution model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations. in Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. vol. 3, pp. 1069-1074.

    A phase-resolving beach evolution model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations. / Fang, K.; Zou, Z.; Dong, P.

    Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Vol. 3 2010. p. 1069-1074.

    Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingOther chapter contribution

    TY - CHAP

    T1 - A phase-resolving beach evolution model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations

    AU - Fang, K.

    AU - Zou, Z.

    AU - Dong, P.

    PY - 2010/1/1

    Y1 - 2010/1/1

    N2 - A phase-resolving beach profile model is developed to simulate beach profile changes under different wave conditions. The model consists of three modules, i.e., wave module, mean flow module and sediment transport module. The wave module is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations developed by Zou and Fang (alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: derivations and validations. Coastal Engineering, 2009, 55(6):506-521). It is able to capture accurately the location of breaking point which plays a key role in generating sandbars. The mean flow module considers undertow and the shear stress just on the top of the bottom, the former is described by a simple ad-hoc method (by Lynett, wave breaking velocity effects in depth-integrated models. Coastal Engineering, 2006, 53(4):325-333.) while the latter is considered by numerically solving Wave Bottom Boundary Layer (WBBL) equation. Finally, the beach updating model based on Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory (WENO) scheme (by Long et al., a numerical scheme for morphological bed level calculations. Coastal Engineering, 2008,55:167-180.) is adopted due to its efficiency. Other processes such as the new total sand transport rate formula which could take wave asymmetric and skewness into account is also incorporated into the model. The numerical results from the model are presented and compared with those from the other similar models.

    AB - A phase-resolving beach profile model is developed to simulate beach profile changes under different wave conditions. The model consists of three modules, i.e., wave module, mean flow module and sediment transport module. The wave module is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations developed by Zou and Fang (alternative forms of the higher-order Boussinesq equations: derivations and validations. Coastal Engineering, 2009, 55(6):506-521). It is able to capture accurately the location of breaking point which plays a key role in generating sandbars. The mean flow module considers undertow and the shear stress just on the top of the bottom, the former is described by a simple ad-hoc method (by Lynett, wave breaking velocity effects in depth-integrated models. Coastal Engineering, 2006, 53(4):325-333.) while the latter is considered by numerically solving Wave Bottom Boundary Layer (WBBL) equation. Finally, the beach updating model based on Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory (WENO) scheme (by Long et al., a numerical scheme for morphological bed level calculations. Coastal Engineering, 2008,55:167-180.) is adopted due to its efficiency. Other processes such as the new total sand transport rate formula which could take wave asymmetric and skewness into account is also incorporated into the model. The numerical results from the model are presented and compared with those from the other similar models.

    UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=77956322360&partnerID=8YFLogxK

    M3 - Other chapter contribution

    VL - 3

    SP - 1069

    EP - 1074

    BT - Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference

    ER -

    Fang K, Zou Z, Dong P. A phase-resolving beach evolution model based on fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations. In Proceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference. Vol. 3. 2010. p. 1069-1074