Run-up of long waves generated by bottom-tilting wave maker

Heng Lu, Yong Sung Park (Lead / Corresponding author), Yong Sik Cho

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

2 Citations (Scopus)
56 Downloads (Pure)

Abstract

Using the recently developed bottom-tilting wave maker, run-ups of very long waves are investigated on an adjustable plane beach. Both leading-elevation waves and leading-depression waves are considered, in which the experimental results are compared with the numerical solution of the nonlinear shallow water equations. A surf similarity parameter based on the steepness of the accelerating phase of the wave is suggested. It is shown that both the maximum run-up height and the theoretical breaking criterion can be described in terms of the surf similarity parameter, which is consistent with the results for the solitary waves.

Original languageEnglish
Number of pages13
JournalJournal of Hydraulic Research
Early online date15 Jan 2019
DOIs
Publication statusE-pub ahead of print - 15 Jan 2019

Keywords

  • Long waves
  • run-up
  • surf-similarity parameter
  • tsunami
  • wave breaking

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