Abstract
Using the recently developed bottom-tilting wave maker, run-ups of very long waves are investigated on an adjustable plane beach. Both leading-elevation waves and leading-depression waves are considered, in which the experimental results are compared with the numerical solution of the nonlinear shallow water equations. A surf similarity parameter based on the steepness of the accelerating phase of the wave is suggested. It is shown that both the maximum run-up height and the theoretical breaking criterion can be described in terms of the surf similarity parameter, which is consistent with the results for the solitary waves.
Original language | English |
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Number of pages | 13 |
Journal | Journal of Hydraulic Research |
Volume | 58 |
Issue number | 1 |
Early online date | 15 Jan 2019 |
DOIs | |
Publication status | Published - 2 Jan 2020 |
Keywords
- Long waves
- run-up
- surf-similarity parameter
- tsunami
- wave breaking
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Civil and Structural Engineering
- Water Science and Technology